Chanel took to the Grand Palais for its spring-summer runway show on Tuesday, marking its return to the soaring glass and steel monument with an eclectic collection of sparkly tweed ensembles and a singing performance from actor Riley Keough.

It was a Paris Fashion Week full of rumors. The shows took place as Chanel, perhaps the most famous Parisian fashion house, looks for a creative director in the wake of Virginie Viard’s departure earlier this year. For many attendees, a question hung in the air: What if this designer took over at Chanel?

If surrealism is twisting the meaning of daily objects, then the shows in Paris delivered in spades: flipping sweaters and transforming them into dresses at Issey Miyake, switching up functional garments at Ottolinger, where shirts were deconstructed and collars worn as embellishments, and at Paloma Wool where knitwear was turned on its head.